River of 4000 Islands

A River of 4000 Islands – Champasak is a beautiful anomaly of nature; imagine an island in a river amongst the mountains. Surely a large mountainous country like Laos would not have islands right? Wrong!

 

The grand Mekong River has bestowed Si Phan Don (four thousand islands) onto the Champasak province in Southernmost Laos. Amongst these islands, the largest is Don Khong which measures about four by eight kilometres.

 

During the rainy seasons, the Mekong spans over twelve kilometres and in parts of the river course where there is a drop in altitude, magnificent waterfalls are formed. One of these is none other than the largest waterfall in South Asia – Khon Pha Pheng. Get ready to be in awe.

 

Nevertheless, visitors to Champasak would be delighted to know that Si Phan Don isn’t the only attraction there. Pakse – the capital of Champasak, has now become an important crossroad for commuters travelling to Thailand or Vietnam via the bridge over Mekong, and even for those crossing between Vientiane and Phnom Penh. Judging from the sprawling backpacking scene and an increasing number of hotels under construction, Pakse looks set to become the next hotspot after Luang Prabang in the north.

 

The décor of Pakse comprises of picturesque colonial buildings and shophouses with architecture ranging from the French colonial era to post-modern 1990’s. The charming capital is also located scenically at the convergence of the Mekong and the Se Don River. What’s there not to love?

Back to Champasak, history-buffs would be pleased to know that the province is home to the ruined Khmer temple – Wat Phu, one of the oldest existing Khmer sites. Located at the base of mount Phu Kao, the temple is said to have originated in the fifth century C.E. The peak of Phu Kao is attention grabbing as well because it resembles Shiva’s phallic symbol; the linga. The temple, located at the foot of Phu Kao, is built around a spring where the linga in its sanctuary is continuously bathed with the spring waters.

 

The stairways leading to Wat Phu’s sanctuary are lined with frangipanis and it is best to visit in the early mornings to experience the fragrance of the flowers. Staying at the nearby town of Champasak thus enables visitors to get to Wat Phu before dawn.

 

The Bolaven plateau, one hour north of Pakse, has scenic bungalow accommodations overlooking the waterfalls. Located 1,000 meters above sea level, the plateaus are ideal for the cultivation of coffee and tea, contributing widely to Laos’ foreign trade. Besides visiting the coffee and tea plantations, activities such as scenic rides across forests, waterfall hopping, visits to hill tribe villages for textile-shopping or even elephant rides are offered. Daredevils might want to try renting motorbikes for exploring the areas.

 

However, note that the islands of Si Phan Don are still best explored on bicycles. Connected by a concrete bridge that was built for the railway tracks, the islands of Don Det and Don Khone are enclaves of various activities, albeit distinct. Don Det is a treasure cove to hoards of young backpackers, giving the place a laidback feel with hammocks hanging out in verandas overlooking the river. Don Khone, on the other hand, offers accommodations such as that of large raft rooms floating directly over the Mekong River.